Before summer slips away like scoop of melted raspberry sorbet, we resolved to make one final ferry trip to Cape Cod. Only, instead of our usual bicycle route around the Province Lands followed by a long sand, sun, and surf soak on Race Point beach, we decided to make a pilgrimage to Wellfleet, the originating town of the oysters that Mr. P so adores. (Yes, we took a 90-minute ferry ride followed by a 20-mile bike ride just so we could eat oysters. We are childless yuppies, after all.)
The Saturday morning ferry from Boston to P-town was completely sold out. People sat on the decks, on the stairs, and on stranger’s laps. Spontaneous parties broke out everywhere, aided no doubt by the decent amounts of light beer and Bloody Marys that eager vacationers nonchalantly sipped at 9am. (If you ever wondered what American life would be like if 90% of the population were gay, I recommend taking a P-town ferry. Or going to France.)
P-town Ferry Bike Rack
Welcome to P-town!
On paper, our 20-mile bicycle route from P-town to Wellfleet looked easy. I always ascribe a certain flatness to the terrain of Cape Cod, but one cannot truly assess hilliness unless on a bicycle. Climbing an endless hill as fast-moving automobiles edge past my vulnerable flesh-and-blood vessel was an entirely new experience for me. This ain’t no rail trail! Luckily, the weather was perfect mid-70s sunshine and the route was charmingly scenic. Not a bad place to die.
P-town Scenery
Roadside Scenery, Truro, MA
We serendipitously rode past Truro Vineyards — one of Cape Cod’s few wineries, and the only one that offers tastings. Honestly, that’s what life with Mr. P is like. The man is a wine magnet. Luckily, we weren’t too far into our ride that sweat would have precluded us from stopping in the elegant tasting room to sample some local unoaked Chardonnay.
Enjoying the Cab Franc
Wining
Chardonnay Grapes
We could have stayed at the winery all day, but a much greater culinary award tempted us in Wellfleet. It took about two hours total of hard cycling — including a harrowing 1-mile stint on Route 6 alongside 50mph traffic — but we finally arrived in Wellfleet center, more than ready for lunch. Unfortunately, it was then that we found out that Mac’s Shack — the acknowledged go-to place for Wellfleet oysters — does not open for lunch. You know that scene in National Lampoon’s Vacation when the Griswolds arrive at Wally World only to find out that it’s closed (here)? Yeah, it was sort of like that.
Of course, there’s lots of dining establishments in Wellfleet that will all-too-gladly charge us $19 for a dozen local oysters. We headed to the pier and stopped at Pearl restaurant for some raw bar action.
Hell Yeah
One Dozen Wellfleets
Those oysters were sooo worth it. After lunch, we walked around the Wellfleet pier to digest before getting back on our bikes.
Wellfleet Pier
Birds @ Wellfleet Pier
I was more relaxed on the 20 miles back to P-town, having acclimated to riding concurrently with vehicular traffic. I realized that most cars took great care in passing me. I also realized that drivers don’t care how slow I’m going — in fact, I’m easier to pass because I’m going about 12 mph. Win-win.
We arrived back in P-town at 5pm. Most people were leaving the beach for their hotels and rentals, but we were finally just stepping foot on the sand. The posted water temperature was 61 degrees, a might bit chilly considering the air temperature was 75 degrees and falling precipitously as the sun scooted under some heavy evening clouds. But Mr. P could not be dissuaded from taking what may be his last ocean dip of the summer, and I sat on the blanket and watched him shiver as he slowly submerged himself into the sea.
Preparing for a swim as the lifeguards pack up
We headed to the bathhouse to rinse our salt-covered bodies and then rode into P-town center for a quick bit of South African fare at the Karoo Kafe, which is perhaps the most reasonably priced food on Cape Cod ($9 for 1/2 pound elk burgers!) Had we not had to catch a ferry, I would have loved to see comic Kate Clinton perform at the Crown and Anchor as Lady Haha. The sun set right before our 8:30pm ferry back to Boston, and Mr. P raced onto the beach to snag a few photos of the pink and rapturous summer sunset before it faded to darkness.
P-town Harbor
